Chapter 14 - Back to Civilization, The Shigar Palace

We had been out of civilization so long that when we got to the Shigar Palace, we started looking for our headlamps because the bathrooms were so dark. Nobody thought of looking for a light switch...and why should we since we had not used one for 15 days. The Shigar Palace Hotel was beautiful. They served us a great lunch even though it was the middle of Ramadan and everyone was fasting. But since we were on travel, we were exempt. They gave us crisp clean raw vegetables which made our eyes pop out and coca cola. Wow.

We set off from Thungol early in the morning to get a head start on the other expeditions who had stayed the night in Askole, which added another 45 minutes to their schedule. Here we leave the snow capped peaks behind as we race to the gap, where we have been told, a slightly better path has been put in place.
Our lead jeep which has our baggage as well as porters who will help get the luggage across as well .
we go over the bridge with it's usual swaying and undulation which we are very used to by now.
Getting closer to the gorge where the road has slid into the river because of the heavy rain.
It is a miracle that the guys hanging on at the rear don't get tossed off..
End of the road. The break in the road will make us walk up to a crossing even higher above the rushing Braldu than before. Here Khalil is sorting out the luggage. They were going to make several passes. There were some Baltis hanging around waiting to make some extra money but Ayub wanted only his trustworthy men. Rich and I were to stay and keep an eye on our remaining stuff to see that it didn't walk away.
The path went steeply up and then went straight across . I am pretty much looking straight up as I shoot this picture.
"Oh My Cod" seems to be our faithful companion.
Another picture looking straight up. You can spot a porter on the left. The angle seems deceptive, but my camera was pointed up about 80 degrees.
VIDEO - Here comes Ibrahim back from depositing his baggage. As usual he does not walk but has to run down the crazily steep path.
One of our porters who must put henna on his fingernails....not sure where this custom came from.
I look back over the path I have just come over. The Braldu is way below us with a couple of porters who decided they would rather risk the lower path then go al the way up. I thought this was much safer than what we had crossed before.
Khalil keeps me company as we start descending back to the road. The jeeps that will take us onward are way below us.
Ibrahim gives the salute as we get under way again.
We are on our way again.
Jeff seemed to prefer the Jeeps to the Land Cruisers. I can't say I blame him, I have a fondness for those as well.
Looking back to where we just came from.
Heading towards Dassu.
The driver liked to fiddle with his cassette player which was a little disconcerting. He would be driving with one hand while the other is trying to make his music adjustment!
VIDEO - The lead jeep tries to roar through the ford but then has to engage 4 wheel drive to go up the other side.
Through the tall grass before the gem mines.
Another ford as Adil waves from the Jeep.
The road to Skardu.
We cross another bridge.
K2Trek-6178
The mines for rubies, aquamarine and peridot.
A sturdier bridge across the Braldu which is an alternate route.
We stop in the middle of nowhere so Jeff could have a bio break. He is probably mortified I took the picture but it seemed too good to pass up.
Anisa and Iza taking pictures of the school kids along the way that yelled out asking for pens!
More school kids. There seemed to be many different uniforms around.
Two students on their way home.
School boys smile as we pass.
A typical house where the outer door would open into a courtyard.
One of the typical dwellings.
"Al-Mahmood Garments" seems to draw a crowd.
Kids running after the jeep asking for pens. Picture by Anisa.
More passerbys smiling. The compound walls all had bramble on top to keep people from climbing over.
Anisa took this picture. The two girls were playing hide and see with her. Every time she would raise the camera they would run around the corner and then peek out again. This the town of Shigar.
Shigar Fort had been restored and is now a very nice hotel. They charge western rates as well!
We walk around all amazed like country bumpkins. Anisa and Iza went to the bathroom and had to come back out to get a head lamp since it was dimly lit. Nobody thoght to try the lightswitch. When I went in I saw a very modern bathroom and put my hand under what I thought was a soap dispenser and jumped out of my skin when an airdryer started blowing air. It is amazing how we had forgotten technology in 3 weeks.
The restored Shigar Fort. The Agha Khan had paid for this and then turned it over to locals for maintenance.
Ignacio and Erin wait for the door to open.
We get a private tour of the museum and the hotel.
The view from a window upstairs.
The Shigar Palace.
The intricate carvings around the door frame.
A balcony out of the guest rooms.
Original carvings from the palace. The different designs like the spiral and the wheel were representing different religions.